Question 1

What is a Flash&Go Mapping (dubbed OTS Map) and how it differs from the ETune?

Accepted Answer

Semantics:
Well plainly, for sake of semantics my OTS map is a PROTune and/or ETune. Essentially, ETune means an email tune and then a PROTune means ANY map built by a Cobb PROTuner (me).

The Origin:
In about, 2013, I coined the term Flash&GO mapping. It was a play on Cobb's mapping. The names implied you just flash the map and you're "good to go." 
The main focus was wanting to further refine to the conditions/tables in the mapping to what I personally liked when driving. As the power increase has always been moderate the main focus was to fix all the nagging throttle, power delivery, and other issues I hated about Cobb or Stock mappings.
With the advent of closed loop fueling in the FA20 WRX this idea took off as it proved to be consistently reliable and a massive upgrade for the money for a lot of customer. 
Then the 22 WRX was released and there were a MASS surge of intakes on these cars as they produced amazing power with an intake. But there was one large problem without they didn't have the appropriate OTS mappings to go with them. After, we were finding out how the MAF on the VBs were hypersensitive and running them on a stock file proved to be less than ideal. So, I started making these maps as a solution until you get a PROTune and offering them for sale as a package with ETS Intakes. The response and positive feedback from them was astounding. So, the infamous DMann OTS maps were born. 
It has since then been flashed on 1,500+ VBs alone as of mid-2023 and one of my more popular options even sold at Third Party websites as well as my own.

The Meat and Potatoes:
These maps require and include no logging. This is how we get to the cheaper price point for the tune. 
In short, these are a custom mappings made for various intakes for STG1 setups on EVERY fuel and EVERY condition imaginable. We have went through about 20 revision per OTS map for every octane, elevation, intake scale, and weather condition. On average I test on 5-6 beta vehicle and fully log each new revision to ensure they are as exact as they can be in different environments. For instance, I have 8 beta maps in each octane, elevation, and region testing the Mishi Intake scaling at the moment. They are still in beta and unreleased as of today while writing this.
These maps are always infinitely being improved as tuning and software are progressing and evolving. I am currently on Rev16 on my OTS Mapping currently with HUNDREDS of hours in them.
The maps are full built just like my ETunes, but the central focus on a modest and SAFE power level with generally good compliance with all fuel and conditions. 
Common misconception is it's a one size fits all. 
Yes and no, yes it's more generalized, but no in the fact that there is a TON of R&D in these maps over thousands of miles in every possible condition. We have over 40+ OTS Maps in the bank I believe for every setup, environment and octane that's applicable.
ALL the maps include, my proprietary Per Gear Requested TQ Mappings and PROVEN IAT Timing Compensations that keep the car happy in any weather. 
The maps also will provide superiorly cleaner, more predictably, more linear, and always consistent power production. 
You can think of the Flash&GO mapping as a softer version of a Full ETune if that helps.

What the Maps will not do:
The maps do increase power, but were NEVER designed for full power. They are made to blend a modest power increase with utmost compliance. I think any power past what is in my OTS maps needs to be logged carefully and turned up in a controlled manner. 
Some other tuners have chosen to send out OTS maps turned up to near what an ETune is. 
I will not, and will never do this. It's not a ego stroking contest; rather, its a product that can be leaned on and stay dependable in almost any scenario.

How this differs from an ETune:
An ETune is essentially an OTS or Flash&GO map variant but a touch more custom to the unique parts you put on your tune sheet to be built for. The ETune will require flashing an initial map, then the end user to log. Usually a series of Idle, Cruise (different speeds), and WOT logs. I will give specifics on what to log. Then car will be turned up more to increase power in a controlled manner with a series of maps and using a checking and clearing process via datalogging with the Cobb AP.
The ETune is the ultimate tune you can get for your car bar none. It can also usually detect minor issues and poor fuel quality issues as well. This process is much more in dept and therefore also almost 2.5 times the cost. 
If you have any DAM issues on your Subaru or nagging knock problems that don't seem to go away a ETune would easily be the choice.

Hopefully this will cleared some of the misconceptions up!

Anthony
DMann Tuning

Question 2

How an Etune Works (Short)

Accepted Answer

1. Purchase the ETune you want to buy with all the add-ons you select. You will receive and email with the Tuning Sheet and what additional information I need to build the tune.
 
2. Email returned forms:
Anthony@DmannTuning.com
 
3. You will receive a freshly built map to your email to flash to your vehicle. Along with mapping will be instructions and logging instructions. Make sure to view my YouTube account there is how-to log videos on there that take it step by step.
 
4. Repeat process of returning logs and flashes until process is fully completed
Do Not Go Wide Open Throttle in the early maps (unless you have been directed for required logging purposes).
 
From the first map the tunes are built to be safe to daily drive on and even hit the interstate if needed. They are designed specifically for your car and your mods and FULLY built to be driven under normal conditions during the entire ETuning process. 
Rule of Thumb: Keep boost under 10psi

Question 3

DMann Tuning's Cobb AP Data/Gauge List Explanation and Generalized Notes for all Pro-Tuned Cars

Accepted Answer

DMann Tuning's Cobb AP Data/Gauge List Explanation and Generalized Notes for all Pro-Tuned Cars
 
A/F Correction #1  = Make sure the Min/Max at idle is never +/- 25% sustained ( and not moving from).  
Simply A/F Corr #1 is the amount in percentage of the instant fuel trimming needed to target an AFR, usually stoichmetric, (14.5-14.7) in closed loop. This is based the MAF Voltage and the static MAF Scale/Estimated Air Mass (measure in grams/sec) inputted for that specific MAF voltage. 
Further explained, say at 1.42 volts on the MAF scaling says it should be at roughly 5.15 grams per second of air mass, the car knows to add the specified amount of fuel needed for 5.15 grams of air mass. However, various imperfect factors are always present. So basically, front o2 will read the AFR as a bit leaner than what the AFR target is and the car needs a more fuel. Well the A/F Correction #1 goes to work. It will make instantaneous changes of global fuel adjustment to add/subtract to hit that requested AFR target and using the front o2 sensor reading to judge correction amount instantaneously. 
This is the function of simple closed loop fueling theory. However, the stock narrowband on MAF driven cars are there mainly to trim fuel in the cruising/idle air/fuel ratio in lighter/closed loop loads.    
 Driving around it will kick around a good bit especially sudden accel and decels. Usually, once you're in medium loads, few pounds of boost or past 65% throttle the this function will disable as you will be switched into Open-Loop Fueling which uses the MAF. In open loop it disables the short corrections and ALL fuel is calculated by the MAF voltage and Air Mass for that voltage range (or simply termed  MAF scaling). 
Again only under idle or very steady cruising the A/F  #1 (Short Term Fuel Trims or STFTs) will be stable. This data will tell you if you have a vacuum leak etc. If there is a leak it will sit at full +25% correction and likely will sit leaner than 14.5-14.7 it's adding fuel to try to target as well.

A/F Ratio #1 = This is the stock NARROWBAND  sensor. Should be around 14-15s soft cruise/idle and low and 11s  wide open throttle on the monitoring device. Anything below 13.0 AFR (12.5-12.9 is even iffy) is getting pretty inaccurate. Anything richer than 12.0AFR the stock NB AFR Sensor is COMPLETELY UNRELIABLE!!
Hence why you should by a wideband and as the name suggest has a wider range of available reliable range of AFRs. Usually wideband sensors can read as lean as 17.9-19.0 AFR and as rich as 9.0-10.0 AFRs depending on brand. For this reason they are ALWAYS recommended with these type of narrowband closed-loop type application. Never trust a narrowband for WOT fueling.

Boost : (Manifold Relative/Gauge Pressure is simply absolute pressure with the current atmospheric pressure subtracted out. This is mainly to make positive pressure (boost) easier to identify, so anything over 0psi relative is positive boost pressure.  Easy.       
This max or peak should ideally be within +/- 1.5psi of the peak listed on the map or notes/descriptions of your ProTune. 
 (Maybe a momentary + 2psi overshoot momentarily in higher gears is possible;  however, should correct within a few milliseconds using the PID theory  in the ECU and TD correction). 
NOTE:   On the monitor screen "Boost" it may error out in certain throttle close or other  situations where it will max the voltage range out on your MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure sensor) almost instantaneously it will disappear. It is usually always a voltage spike on throttle close on Drive-By-Wire cars. However, the 16-bits and/or Drive-By-Cable will also throw the MAX voltage (24.14psi) as random  errors quite frequently even full boost or mid-pull and will show it super fast. It is just enough to see it in a random line or two in the datalog. It usually only a errors for a couple lines in the datalog out of 30 or more lines showing accurate boost levels otherwise. 
(Just ignore the 24.14psi in the min/max under the boost monitor when it's an obvious error).

Feedback Knock Control = Ideally should  be -2.11 or less Wide Open Throttle (WOT)  however may kick up to -8 to even -11.98 (rare) just driving around normal from driveline noise/chatter to "burst knock." Usually it's a crazy fast burst and decay and usually always simply noise/false knock agitating the knock sensor. This doesn't necessarily mean actually det, knock, or pre-ignition. In most all cases if a false reading from the KC.
 Also sudden/hard throttle changes/opening can also kick a some FBKC which shouldn't be worried about. if the car is off-throttle and smash pedal fast at a lower RPM usually can kick FBKC but should start decaying out almost immediately. If you have severe knock control issues, like seeing no FBKC and your DAM is unstable start by cleaning the metal base of your Knock Sensor then re-torque it to exactly 17.5 ft/pds. Usually on rebuilt motors the tech will over-tighten or leave it too loose. It is imperative to be torques correctly for proper functionality and noise filtering. 
E.g. seeing higher FBKC Min/Max Values:  You were driving around town and happen to look down at your monitor and see a random -6.33. It is very likely you just it's just false noise the  knock sensor and or driveline noise. FBKC is subjective as these cars as they use "blanket" knock control theory with mediocre noise/knock filtering.  
So at WOT in gear steady pull and a SUSTAINED (not lowering/decaying out) of -4.22 or more would likely a true knock correction and if it happens more than randomly needs to be sorted.
 
Fine Learning Knock Control = This will vary and as long as you don't see any more than -4.22 being pulled should not be of concern. This is constantly adapting. So if you see a larger number could be a variety of things, give it a few more miles to keep learning and usually always decays back out within 50-100 miles if you are able to hit the problematic the load range without further instances of knock correction being triggered. Bigger than -4.22 FLKC, along with more than normal FBKC it is likely a smaller gas quality change or leak/fueling issue and needs to be checked.

Intake Air Temperature (also for Boost Air Temp used in Speed Density IAT relocation) = 
As a rule of thumb, make sure you NEVER go crazy beating on the car WOT being +40 degrees over ambient. The car is heat-soaked from sitting in traffic/heat and needs to cool off. At this point the timing compensation tables are pulling up to -6 degrees from the entire timing range.
 I general do not floor the car over 135 degrees (F) for Speed Density; and 145 degrees for MAF. Simply drive the car normally and somewhat conservatively until the Intake temps come down as fresh air is introduced. If you have consistently high IATs above 125 degrees you're throwing power away as heat temp compensation will automatically pull timing out above 125 for MAF and 115 for SD.

Full Speed Density relocated IAT (considered a boost air temp sensor now or "BAT") owners only; potential traffic "heatsoak" issue:
When/if you sit in traffic for extended amounts of time on a hot day and the car is sufficiently heat-soaked drive the car very easy until your BATs cool down some!! 
Basically SD is based off Temps (The Ideal Gas Law say density of air changes at a fixed rate per temperature gradient change and static), Manifold Pressure, and Theoretical Air Densities/Efficiency is calculated outputting a calculated fuel  almost instantaneously. However, when you heatsoak the car with a "fraudulent" heat-soaked temperature the ideal gas law is no longer accurate in trimming total fuel output based on temperature. Make sure you BABY the car until BATs are back down to sane levels. If at ANY time (usually above 160s BAT) the starts to feel hesitant, super sluggish, and generally "off" pull over pop the hood in the shade for 15-20 minutes and let the BAT/IAT piping area cool. 
The extra hot piping, limited airflow underhood condition and surrounding area's radiant heat will falsify the true incoming air temp to the manifold via radiant heat transfer through the sensor itself. Your fueling is based on theories, so if there is an external factor or condition soaking/falsifying the sensor data this Gas-Law is no longer accurate and neither is your fueling. 
This is also why you NEVER want to put an IAT sensor bunged directly into the intake manifold.  I have found GMs to be very unreliable as well, so just buy the AEM and not have to constantly replace them.

DAM MONITOR (Most Important!!) = (For Mainly Pre-DIT Vehicles)
This is the one that will tell you if you're car is severely knocking or not. A DAM numeral  of  1.0 is considered  a full Dynamic Advance Multiplier. 
Which generally means safe, knock free and the 100% of the (KCA) timing map is added onto your base timing map increasing your total timing to the range we set it to when we tuned it. A full DAM is what you want and almost always should be on 1.0 in most all driving conditions. 
 However, if it drops by .25 DAM value (or 25%) it is one course (severe) knock correction. So now you use 75% of the additional timing map lowering the effective total timing to increase the resistance to another detonation event. However, severe misfires can and will also cause a DAM drop, but it's usually always to .8750. This minor DAM dip is usually always a misfire. So a DAM of .8750 means you likely just misfired and don't panic; however, a  .75, .6750, .5, .4750, .25 etc or less that likely a pretty severe knock that is likely ongoing and need to be service or looked at immediately! 
With the DAM at .5 (after two course knock events) you are running roughly 2-3 degrees less timing than normal. It is important to note if your DAM takes a hard hit and below .75 you need to contact me for ways to test and recover from this safely to prevent damage to the internals of the engine.
Again, DAM philosophy is .25 of DAM representation is equal to 25% global reduction in the knock advance timing map. So if the DAM drops by .25 it's usually always a coarse knock correction event (big det event) and you need to contact me.  
Eg. So if your DAM is at .50 you had two big detonations. Post tune big knock events are almost always cause by post-MAF leaks, failing MAF, and simply/most often plain crappy gas. 
16-bit DAM Logic : A DAM of 16 (meaning 100%) are representative of the overall percentages of KCA timing map being used. 
Note:  DAM Philosophy for 16-bit (02-05 WRX, V7-8 JDM STi) is used by multiples of 4.
So a 4 point DAM change is basically (25% of KCA map) x 4 = 16 (or full 16 point DAM).  Basically the same as a .25 DAM drop on a 32bit ECU. They changed the numerals around to make it easier to monitor. 
 DAM of 16 means it's running the full values in the knock advance added in and relatable to the 1.0 100% DAM on the newer ECUs. The only difference is in the 32-bit a full whole number (1.0) represents  100%  and the 16-bit is simply in multiples of 4. 
However, most times a misfire on a 16-bit usually drops by 2 DAM points. A course knock correction (bigger knock event) will usually always kick it by 4 DAM points, so a 13-15 DAM is likely miss-fires and not severely knock. 
Again, severe misfires on the 16-bit ECU will drop the DAM by 2s and eventually working the DAM down as low or lower than a course knock correction.  So it's important to find where it drops the DAM and under what condition. That is the reason why this should always be monitored whenever feasible. If your CEL is flashing this is severe MISFIRES and usually not knock related unless you have a CEL knock flash enabled (Like a Carberry ROM or something). 
THIS SINGLE DAM MONITOR CAN SAVE YOUR MOTOR IN MOST ALL DISASTER SITUATIONS IF MONITORED REGULARLY!!!

Simple rules of keeping your tuned Subarus alive!!
1. NEVER EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER floor a boosted car in an overdrive/high gear from a very low RPM and keep it pinned. This is a sure way to kill your engine fast. This principle is global on any FI vehicle really. Extremely high cylinder pressure and boost levels at low engine speed with exaggerated load times due to the long gears does not make for a happy car.
Rule of thumbs after being tuned on increased boost levels or even stock: 
The 6spd cars ideally (5/6th gears are OD gears) you never want to floor it below 4000rpm in 5th and 4500rpm in 6th, so just drop a gear if you need more accelerate to pass traffic. 
The 5spd (especially the longer geared 06-07 WRX and 08+ WRX) never ever floor and hold sustained in 5th gear under 4000rpm or even 4500rpm if you like your internals.
Half throttle is fine across platforms (*If Part Throttle Full Boost isn't present*) keeping it 10-13psi or less in OD gears is jut good practice in lower rpm ranges. If you do end up going WOT through 4th gear's rev-ability and then shift into 5th this is the least likely way to damage something while flooring fifth gear. However, flooring a car to its upper speed potential and especially sustained for extremely long WOT pulls also increased temperature of almost all components, accelerated wear, and massive amounts of long peaky cylinder loads, and also EGT temps EXPONENTIALLY (and equally as iffy) raise,  so it's equally as dangerous. I would pick your "fun" wisely.  
Again, super high loads, in higher/OD gears, and  sustaining in low RPM ranges = rebuilds.  It's also a good way to try and see what fuel cut feels like. 
I know it's fun for some to put it in 6th at 2500rpm and floor it and feel the turbo spool and propel the car forward to 120mph, but it's definitely not good (especially with a larger turbo) for the car. If everyone would just please stop loading up over-drive gears it would put me at a little more ease.

2. Use a thicker oil (Minimum of 10w-30 premium synthetic and 5w-40 during warmer months) in almost any turbo'd EJ-series Subaru motor. Also, check the oil level every full tank of gas. These cars leak/burn oil mainly via aging turbo/seals  and oils that are too thin. Also check your PCVs regularly when they get stuck open it's a common cause for oil loss.
3. Check your DAMN OIL AGAIN! These cars have oiling issues as it is. By the time the dummy light (stock oil light on dash) illuminates it's already too late.
4. Be cautious with you Gas: 
Where you purchase gas from is very important.  Always use premium brand name gas stations. Stay away from most all military installation gas stations in this area, Wal-Mart, or any place called Tony's Pit Stop that happens to have a couple pumps outside. Buy some type of device (like the AP) that can see realtime knock corrections of all kinds or a knock light or something. Most all cars with busted ringlands usually always have poor quality gas and they went to romp on it and the car is knocking uncontrollable and they never even know it and it's already too late.
Also if you're tuned for 93 octane DO NOT put anything else in it besides maybe 91/92 temporarily (or if out of town) and do not exceed more than 3/4 throttle or 4500rpm while the lower quality fuel is in the tank on the 93 octane tune. Then make sure to refill with true 93 when available. 
Also note, even with the reserve gas light is on likely still a good gallon in the saddle bags left and around  another gallon in the fuel lines/rails going to the front of the car from the tank of the old gas. So after pumping in 93 on top of the lower octane fuel give it a few miles (30-40) before going WOT or driving too aggressively. The car below 1.4 g/rev load (8-10psi) and under 4500rpm will not mind 91/92 too much. But ESPECIALLY at full boost and peak torque or higher the car will definitely not be happy.
As a rule you can always go up in octane as long as fuel specific gravity, oxygenation, and stoichmetric properties are similar, but never down.  Like having a 91 tune and using 93 is 100% fine. In all reality, is likely to have more anti-detonation ability. However, vise-versa it will knock more if tuned on 93 and running 91 (esp ACN91) and  under heavy loads.

5. Just remember these are not race cars they are sporty commuters with fragile pistons with emphasis on EPA cold-start emission regulations. Simply, if you beat the shit out of the car constantly you will be rebuilding it as often as a racecars do. There is a difference of having occasional spirited fun and just plain being abusive. Find the balance.  
Good luck and happy monitoring!
V/R
Anthony J Berry
DMann Tuning-EFI Calibrator and ProTuner

Question 4

Dmann Tuning's Short Recommendations

Accepted Answer

Generalized Notes for all Pro-Tuned Cars

DO NOT EVER FLOOR YOUR CAR IN OVERDRIVE/HIGHGEAR
A boosted car in an overdrive/high gear from a very low RPM and keep it pinned is a sure way to kill your engine fast. This principle is global on any forced induction vehicle really. Extremely high cylinder pressure and boost levels at low engine speed with exaggerated load times due to the long gears does not make for a happy car.

Rule of thumbs after being tuned on increased boost levels or even stock:

The 6spd cars ideally (5/6th gears are OD gears) you never want to floor it below 4000rpm in 5th and 4500rpm in 6th, so just drop a gear if you need more accelerate to pass traffic. 
The 5spd (especially the longer geared 06-07 WRX and 08+ WRX) never ever floor and hold sustained in 5th gear under 4000rpm or even 4500rpm if you like your internals.

KEEP BOOST BETWEEN 10-13PSI OR LESS
Half throttle is fine across platforms (*If Part Throttle Full Boost isn't present*) in OD gears is just good practice in lower rpm ranges. If you do end up going WOT through 4th gear's rev-ability and then shift into 5th this is the least likely way to damage something while flooring fifth gear. However, flooring a car to its upper speed potential and especially sustained for extremely long WOT pulls also increased temperature of almost all components, accelerated wear, and massive amounts of long peaky cylinder loads, and also EGT temps EXPONENTIALLY (and equally as iffy) raise,  so it's equally as dangerous. I would pick your "fun" wisely.

Again, super high loads, in higher/OD gears, and  sustaining in low RPM ranges = rebuilds.  It's also a good way to try and see what fuel cut feels like. 
I know it's fun for some to put it in 6th at 2500rpm and floor it and feel the turbo spool and propel the car forward to 120mph, but it's definitely not good (especially with a larger turbo) for the car. If everyone would just please stop loading up over-drive gears it would put me at a little more ease. 
​​
USE A THICKER OIL
(Minimum of 10w-30 premium synthetic and 5w-40 during warmer months) in almost any turbo'd EJ-series Subaru motor. For all other cars, please refer to one of my shop locations, for expert advice.

Also, check the oil level every full tank of gas. These cars leak/burn oil mainly via aging turbo/seals  and oils that are too thin. Also check your PCVs regularly when they get stuck open it's a common cause for oil loss.

​CHECK YOUR DAMN OIL AGAIN! These cars have oiling issues as it is. By the time the dummy light (stock oil light on dash) illuminates it's already too late.
 
QUALITY OF GASOLINE
Where you purchase gas from is very important.  Always use premium brand name gas stations. Stay away from most all military installation gas stations in this area, grocery store name gas stations, or any place named after a person such as "Tony's/Dan's/Bobby's Pit Stop that happens to have a couple pumps outside.

Purchase a device (like the AP) that can see realtime knock corrections of all kinds or a knock light or something. Most all cars with busted ringlands usually always have poor quality gas and they went to romp on it and the car is knocking uncontrollable and they never even know it and now it's already too late.
 
If you're tuned for 93 octane DO NOT put anything else in it besides maybe 91/92 temporarily (or if out of town) and do not exceed more than 3/4 throttle or 4500rpm while the lower quality fuel is in the tank on the 93 octane tune. Then make sure to refill with true 93 when available. 
 
Even with the reserve gas light is on likely still a good gallon in the saddle bags left and around  another  gallon in the fuel lines/rails going to the front of the car from the tank of the old gas. So after pumping in 93 on top of the lower octane fuel give it a few miles (30-40) before going WOT or driving too aggressively. The car below 1.4 g/rev load (8-10psi) and under 4500rpm will not mind 91/92 too much. But ESPECIALLY at full boost and peak torque or higher the car will definitely not be happy.
 
As a rule you can always go up in octane as long as fuel specific gravity, oxygenation, and stoichmetric properties are similar, but never down.  Like having a 91 tune and using 93 is 100% fine. In all reality, is likely to have more anti-detonation ability. However, vise-versa it will knock more if tuned on 93 and running 91 (esp ACN91) and  under heavy loads.

STOP BELIEVING YOU ARE A RACECAR DRIVER IN YOUR DAILY DRIVER
Just remember these are not race cars they are your sporty commuters with fragile pistons and question rod bearings with emphasis on EPA cold-start emission regulations. Simply, if you beat the crap out of the car constantly you will be rebuilding it as often as a racecars do. There is a difference of having occasional spirited fun and just plain being abusive. Find the balance.  
​
Good luck and happy monitoring!
V/R
Anthony J Berry
DMann Tuning - Cobb ProTuner

Question 5

Cobb AP Data/Gauge Explaination

Accepted Answer

A/F Correction #1
Make sure the Min/Max at idle is never +/- 25% sustained ( and not moving from).  
Simply A/F Corr #1 is the amount in percentage of the instant fuel trimming needed to target an AFR, usually stoichmetric, (14.5-14.7) in closed loop. This is based the MAF Voltage and the static MAF Scale/Estimated Air Mass (measure in grams/sec) inputted for that specific MAF voltage. 
Further explained, say at 1.42 volts on the MAF scaling says it should be at roughly 5.15 grams per second of air mass, the car knows to add the specified amount of fuel needed for 5.15 grams of air mass.
However, various imperfect factors are always present. So basically, front o2 will read the AFR as a bit leaner than what the AFR target is and the car needs a more fuel.
Well the A/F Correction #1 goes to work. It will make instantaneous changes of global fuel adjustment to add/subtract to hit that requested AFR target and using the front o2 sensor reading to judge correction amount instantaneously. 
This is the function of simple closed loop fueling theory. However, the stock narrowband on MAF driven cars are there mainly to trim fuel in the cruising/idle air/fuel ratio in lighter/closed loop loads.    
 Driving around it will kick around a good bit especially sudden accel and decels. Usually, once you're in medium loads, few pounds of boost or past 65% throttle the this function will disable as you will be switched into Open-Loop Fueling which uses the MAF. In open loop it disables the short corrections and ALL fuel is calculated by the MAF voltage and Air Mass for that voltage range (or simply termed  MAF scaling). 
Again only under idle or very steady cruising the A/F  #1 (Short Term Fuel Trims or STFTs) will be stable. This data will tell you if you have a vacuum leak etc. If there is a leak it will sit at full +25% correction and likely will sit leaner than 14.5-14.7 it's adding fuel to try to target as well.
 
A/F Ratio #1
This is the stock NARROWBAND  sensor. Should be around 14-15s soft cruise/idle and low and 11s  wide open throttle on the monitoring device. Anything below 13.0 AFR (12.5-12.9 is even iffy) is getting pretty inaccurate. Anything richer than 12.0AFR the stock NB AFR Sensor is COMPLETELY UNRELIABLE!!
Hence why you should by a wideband and as the name suggest has a wider range of available reliable range of AFRs. Usually wideband sensors can read as lean as 17.9-19.0 AFR and as rich as 9.0-10.0 AFRs depending on brand. For this reason they are ALWAYS recommended with these type of narrowband closed-loop type application. Never trust a narrowband for WOT fueling.

BOOST
(Manifold Relative/Gauge Pressure is simply absolute pressure with the current atmospheric pressure subtracted out. This is mainly to make positive pressure (boost) easier to identify, so anything over 0psi relative is positive boost pressure.  Easy.       
This max or peak should ideally be within +/- 1.5psi of the peak listed on the map or notes/descriptions of your ProTune. 
 (Maybe a momentary + 2psi overshoot momentarily in higher gears is possible;  however, should correct within a few milliseconds using the PID theory  in the ECU and TD correction). 
NOTE:   On the monitor screen "Boost" it may error out in certain throttle close or other  situations where it will max the voltage range out on your MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure sensor) almost instantaneously it will disappear. It is usually always a voltage spike on throttle close on Drive-By-Wire cars. However, the 16-bits and/or Drive-By-Cable will also throw the MAX voltage (24.14psi) as random  errors quite frequently even full boost or mid-pull and will show it super fast. It is just enough to see it in a random line or two in the datalog. It usually only a errors for a couple lines in the datalog out of 30 or more lines showing accurate boost levels otherwise. 
(Just ignore the 24.14psi in the min/max under the boost monitor when it's an obvious error).
 
Feedback Knock Control
Ideally should  be -2.11 or less Wide Open Throttle (WOT)  however may kick up to -8 to even -11.98 (rare) just driving around normal from driveline noise/chatter to "burst knock." Usually it's a crazy fast burst and decay and usually always simply noise/false knock agitating the knock sensor. This doesn't necessarily mean actually det, knock, or pre-ignition. In most all cases if a false reading from the KC.
 Also sudden/hard throttle changes/opening can also kick a some FBKC which shouldn't be worried about. if the car is off-throttle and smash pedal fast at a lower RPM usually can kick FBKC but should start decaying out almost immediately. If you have severe knock control issues, like seeing no FBKC and your DAM is unstable start by cleaning the metal base of your Knock Sensor then re-torque it to exactly 17.5 ft/pds. Usually on rebuilt motors the tech will over-tighten or leave it too loose. It is imperative to be torques correctly for proper functionality and noise filtering. 
E.g. seeing higher FBKC Min/Max Values:  You were driving around town and happen to look down at your monitor and see a random -6.33. It is very likely you just it's just false noise the  knock sensor and or driveline noise. FBKC is subjective as these cars as they use "blanket" knock control theory with mediocre noise/knock filtering.  
So at WOT in gear steady pull and a SUSTAINED (not lowering/decaying out) of -4.22 or more would likely a true knock correction and if it happens more than randomly needs to be sorted.
 
Fine Learning Knock Control
This will vary and as long as you don't see any more than -4.22 being pulled should not be of concern. This is constantly adapting. So if you see a larger number could be a variety of things, give it a few more miles to keep learning and usually always decays back out within 50-100 miles if you are able to hit the problematic the load range without further instances of knock correction being triggered. Bigger than -4.22 FLKC, along with more than normal FBKC it is likely a smaller gas quality change or leak/fueling issue and needs to be checked.
 
Intake Air Temperature
(also for Boost Air Temp used in Speed Density IAT relocation)
 
As a rule of thumb, make sure you NEVER go crazy beating on the car [WOT] +40 degrees over ambient temperature. The car is heat-soaked and needs to cool off. Why? At this point the timing compensation tables are pulling up to -6 degrees from the entire timing range, and will lead to incorrect tuning due to the car's compensation.
 
I general do not recommend to floor the car over 135 degrees (F) for Speed Density; and 145 degrees for MAF. Simply drive the car normally and somewhat conservatively until the Intake temps come down as fresh air is introduced. If you have consistently high IATs above 125 degrees you're throwing power away as heat temperature compensation will automatically pull timing out above 125 for MAF and 115 for SD.
 
Full Speed Density relocated IAT
(considered a boost air temp sensor now or "BAT") owners only; potential traffic "heatsoak" issue.
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When/if you sit in traffic for extended amounts of time on a hot day and the car is sufficiently heat-soaked drive the car very easy until your BATs cool down some!! 
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Basically SD is based off Temps (The Ideal Gas Law say density of air changes at a fixed rate per temperature gradient change and static), Manifold Pressure, and Theoretical Air Densities/Efficiency is calculated outputting a calculated fuel almost instantaneously. However, when you heatsoak the car with a "fraudulent" heat-soaked temperature the ideal gas law is no longer accurate in trimming total fuel output based on temperature. Make sure you BABY the car until BATs are back down to much more normal levels. If at ANY time (usually above 160s BAT) the starts to feel hesitant, super sluggish, and generally "off" pull over pop the hood in the shade for 15-20 minutes and let the BAT/IAT piping area cool, then resume normal driving conditions.
 
The extra hot piping, limited airflow underhood condition and surrounding area's radiant heat will falsify the true incoming air temp to the manifold via radiant heat transfer through the sensor itself. Your fueling is based on theories, so if there is an external factor or condition soaking/falsifying the sensor data this Gas-Law is no longer accurate and neither is your fueling. 
 
This is also why you NEVER want to put an IAT sensor bunged directly into the intake manifold.  I have found GMs to be very unreliable as well, so just buy the AEM and not have to constantly replace them.

DAM MONITOR
(Most Important!!) = (For Mainly Pre-DIT Vehicles)
This is the one that will tell you if you're car is severely knocking or not.
 
A DAM numeral of 1.0 is considered  a full Dynamic Advance Multiplier.  
 
Which generally means safe, knock free and the 100% of the (KCA) timing map is added onto your base timing map increasing your total timing to the range we set it to when we tuned it. A full DAM is what you want and almost always should be on 1.0 in most all driving conditions. 
 
However, if it drops by .25 DAM value (or 25%) it is one course (severe) knock correction. So now you use 75% of the additional timing map lowering the effective total timing to increase the resistance to another detonation event. However, severe misfires can and will also cause a DAM drop, but it's usually always to .8750. This minor DAM dip is usually always a misfire. So a DAM of .8750 means you likely just misfired and don't panic; however,  a  .75, .6750, .5, .4750, .25 etc or less that likely a pretty severe knock that is likely ongoing and need to be service or looked at immediately! Again, DAM philosophy is .25 of DAM representation is equal to 25% global reduction in the knock advance timing map. So if the DAM drops by .25 it's usually always a coarse knock correction event (big det event) and you need to contact me.  
 
With the DAM at .5 (after two course knock events) you are running ~2-3 degrees less timing than normal. It is important to note if your DAM takes a hard hit and below .75 you need to contact me for ways to test and recover from this safely to prevent damage to the internals of the engine.
Eg. So if your DAM is at .50 you had two big detonations. Post tune big knock events are almost always cause by post-MAF leaks, failing MAF, and simply/most often plain crappy gas. 
 
16-bit DAM Logic : A DAM of 16 (meaning 100%) are representative of the overall percentages of KCA timing map being used. 
Note:  DAM Philosophy for 16-bit (02-05 WRX, V7-8 JDM STi) is used by multiples of 4.
So a 4 point DAM change is basically (25% of KCA map) x 4 = 16 (or full 16 point DAM).  Basically the same as a .25 DAM drop on a 32bit ECU. They changed the numerals around to make it easier to monitor. 
DAM of 16 means it's running the full values in the knock advance added in and relatable to the 1.0 100% DAM on the newer ECUs. The only difference is in the 32-bit a full whole number (1.0) represents  100%  and the 16-bit is simply in multiples of 4. 
 
However, most times a misfire on a 16-bit usually drops by 2 DAM points. A course knock correction (bigger knock event) will usually always kick it by 4 DAM points, so a 13-15 DAM is likely miss-fires and not severely knock. 
 
Again, severe misfires on the 16-bit ECU will drop the DAM by 2s and eventually working the DAM down as low or lower than a course knock correction.  So it's important to find where it drops the DAM and under what condition. That is the reason why this should always be monitored whenever feasible.  If your CEL is flashing this is severe MISFIRES and usually not knock related unless you have a CEL knock flash enabled (Like a Carberry ROM or something). 
 
THIS SINGLE DAM MONITOR CAN SAVE YOUR MOTOR IN MOST ALL DISASTER SITUATIONS IF MONITORED REGULARLY!!!
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Good luck and happy monitoring!
V/R
Anthony J Berry
Drunkmann Tuning-EFI Calibrator and ProTuner

Question 6

How do I break in my new built engine?

Accepted Answer

D-Mann Tuning Built-Motor Subaru Break-In Guide
0-100miles, Make sure the ECU is on a known good revision FROM ME! Prime the vehicle with no fuel to make sure oil is to camshafts etc. Make sure all leaks are taken care of and make sure the car will idle on its own.  Turn the cabin temperature on as hot as possible and the blower fans on high. Warm the car to operating temperature making sure you bleed the cooling system for air. Then perform a High Idle (1500rpm) for 10 minutes. Shut the car off and it’s recommended to drain oil and replace filter. Cut the filter open and inspect for bearing material or anything out of the ordinary. Run engine lightly, no more than 20% TPS and NO BOOST!
100-250 miles, run engine very lightly, no more that 1-3 psi boost, no more than 25% TPS and 4000RPM, Do your best to vary the engine RPM (switching gears if you have to while cruising) and decelerate the engine (from a higher RPM) under vacuum as frequently as you accelerate the engine, you want your engine to break-in evenly. Make 100% sure you always engine break whenever you drive, and never leave the RPMs constant for more than 20 seconds.
250-500 miles, run engine very lightly, no more that 3-5 psi boost, no more than 40% TPS and 4500 RPM Change engine oil and filter at 250 miles. Look for more glittery material in oil. Do your best to vary the engine RPM and decelerate the engine under vacuum as frequently as you accelerate the engine; down shift the vehicle to come to a stop rather than using just the brakes.
500-1000 miles, run engine more aggressively, no more that 6-9 psi boost, no more than 50% TPS and 5000 RPM Change engine oil and filter at 750 miles. Look for less glittery material in oil. 
Slowly raise the rev limit throughout break-in all the way to redline just after 1000 miles. Add 300-500 rpm per 50 miles. 
(Eg. 5300rpm@1050; 5700@1100; 6100@1150; 6600@1200; 7000+@1250 miles.)

At 1250 miles change the oil and filter again and use synthetic oil, approved by me or your builder, before the final tune. 
Please be sure to vary the RPM range throughout engine break-in…you want to do what you can to promote even break-in of the engine hardware. Ideally, the engine will optimally perform throughout the RPM range. Engine ring sealing can be tested throughout the engine break-in process with a compression gauge and cylinder leak-down test kit (CLT); you can test at TDC and BDC. Be sure to perform these tests on a warm motor with the throttle blade fully open. You would want your measured compression to be within 20psi of each other on all cylinders and the CLT to 7% or less across all cylinders. 
Recommended Oils: Almost any 10w-30 regular Dino motor oil will work for the first startup/high idle. Shell Rotella in the white jug 10-30 is ideal and cheap. You can use Brad Penn Break In oil; however, it is HIGHLY recommended to run Motul 10-40 Break-in Oil from 50-1250miles or so. I would recommend specially formulated “break-in” oil be used at minimum the first 750 miles minimum and not moving to a synthetic until at LEAST 1000 miles. The bearings need good seat time with a non-synthetic to build good “meat.” The synthetic oils are more micro-lubricants and almost too slippery to maintain good bearing bite during initial break-in.

Question 7

How to set fuel pressure correctly?

Accepted Answer

Setting Fuel Pressure with aftermarket FPRs:

1.      Start with the car off and remove the vacuum/boost reference line (on the FPR side) that is running to the intake manifold or BPV etc. Should be a standard rubber vacuum line leading to a boost/vacuum source.
2.      Find something to cap this. Make sure whatever you find there is a head or it barely fits the vacuum hosing so you don’t lose it as there will be vacuum pressure on this line. In most cases a bolt or Phillips head screwdriver works well for this and zip tie it to ensure there is no leaks.
3.      Start the car and let it idle a minimum of one minute. The Fuel Pump duty on most cars will run at 100% for at least 30 seconds. You do not want to set fuel pressure while the FP is at 100% duty.  After 30-45 seconds the pump will return to standard 33% or 50% duty.
4.      Set your fuel pressure to EXACTLY 43.5psi, unless otherwise told by me, whilst the car is still at idle.
5.      Turn the car off and reset the FPR reference vacuum/boost line back to where it was connected and Zip Tie both ends! If this blows off you will lean out! 
6.      Restart the car and ensure the FPR has lowered to 35-39psi. It is supposed to drop 1psi per psi of vacuum; however, in most cases it will not drop the entire amount via vacuum. So it is normal to see 38-39psi. In boost it should be 1:1. For instance at 43.5psi static and 20psi of boost it should be at 63.5psi of fuel pressure. Positive hike per psi of boost is way more relevant and needs to be accurate unlike in vacuum. However, the FPR should drop by at least 4-5psi with the vacuum line reset.

NOTES: Make 100% sure your fuel pressure does move with change in vacuum/boost. Also ensure that you are on a dedicated line. Do not add boost gauges or any other items to this line if they leak you lose your fuel pressure. Fuel pressure is the utmost importance and is priority over anything else. You need to mitigate any issues that could arise from faulty accessories. Finally, make sure you are not tee’d into a line that has a check valve. Simply blow and suck (enter joke here) into the line to ensure unobstructed airflow.

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